Gotta Go, Take 2

Always interesting, with only 20 hours in Manila we are now no longer living "1st world." We've moved to a country whose plumbing system can't handle the strains of toilet paper, we've seen an old woman squat right on the sidewalk and Josh somehow managed to get a massage in the men's room last night! Who knows what else was going on in there.

It's still early but I'm very confident over the next few weeks this country will provide many misadventures. For those interested, Josh has just posted a map of our travels (up through Taiwan) over at his blog page. Here is the link again: http://joshtracker.blogspot.com

When you gotta go, you gotta go

The bathroom for us continues to be a unique adventure unto itself in every country, city, town, and establishment we venture. When one opens that door marked with the lone blue man, you never know what's on the other side. We have come to expect the unexpected. We have been introduced to pit-toilets right next to your standard stool with signs that read "foreigners only". We have been lead down open alleys to nothing more than an outhouse in the middle of a large city. One door even sent me into a mechanics garage! It was quite the dance over scooter parts and tools to reach that rest area. For some reason, toilet doors are much lower than other doorways here and the floors are always raised to accept the plumbing. No one is more conscious of this fact than Josh who creamed the top of his head on a stall door in Korea! He may still have the mark to prove it. I have seen aquariums, aluminum, tiled troughs, and one urinal was even cut into the side of rock with a natural spring running over the slab to wash away the waste. Quite an amazing set-up.

Have you ever tried to pee with a 50 pound pack on your back, waist-strap blocking your belt and a daypack in front obstructing whatever view you wish you had? This challenge is negotiated at almost every plane, train and bus station. It amazes me I have not completely sprayed my trousers and shoes. Then there are the bus rides. It is never recommended to drink 500ml beers while waiting for your bus. Those things don't have bathrooms, and the 3 hour bus ride to Anywhere, Asia will feel like a lifetime negotiating semi-maintained roads with a bladder on the edge of bursting (learned first hand, on an excruciating trip to Kenting, Taiwan). Of other random note: nobody on this side of the world believes shower curtains are a useful product (many prefer their thrones, floors and TP very moist it seems) and the urinals have all taken on an automatic "pre-flush." What's with that?

Well, once again, it's time to go. Today is our last day in Taiwan. Night markets, big cities, quiet countryside brimming w/ rice paddies, lonely beaches, cheap prices, friendly people...all packed into a tiny island! It started out as a stopover to the Philippines, who knew we'd stay so long? By this time tomorrow, we will be calling Manila our home and exploring all the wonderful opportunities she beholds.

Big Mac Attack

Yesterday we celebrated one month on the road at McDonalds. It wasn't very difficult to avoid the golden arches all this time, but once I sunk my teeth into that crispy, yellow fry...it tasted like pure Americana and I loved it. It's funny the things you crave when you can't obtain them readily (boy would I kill for a turkey sandwich w/ mayo!). I hardly ever drink CocaCola at home, but every few days I get one just for the familiar flavor in my mouth. I also had to resort to Mike Roth's "Dorito Trick" to calm my squigly stomach after a nice steamy bowl of pig intestine soup w/ noodles. Yum-Yum.

Taiwan has been amazing. What a neat pseudo-country. The highlight day was a trip to Toroko Gorge. An enormous scar on the earth with five rivers all dumping massive amounts of water into it, carving ever deeper into the rock. We walked through a pitch black cave with showers of water dumping our heads...one word: exhilarating! Then topped off the day sitting at the top of a five story pagoda, precariously perched at the edge of a cliff overlooking this tiny town at the gateway to the gorge. As darkness rolled in we jammed to tunes and ate peanut butter savoring a truly unforgettable day.

Taiwan 101

After MUCH debate, we abandon the original plan of boating to Beijing in favor of a more hospitable climate. It will create a small logistics problem but mere minutes after stepping off the plane, there was no question "weather" the right decision was made. So here we are in Taipei, an Asiatic city of many contrasts. It is steeped in Chinese culture, scooters rule the roads and you can turn around any corner to find temples tucked into the oddest of spaces. The language is Mandarin, but people are clearly speaking business. This pseuo-country is very cozy with the West and has a work ethic to match. There is a McD's and Pizza Hut at every metro stop, 7-11 rules the mini-mart and English language comprehension is a thing people strive for. What is lacking in this sprawling metropolis are creative business models and spacing of shops. There are plenty of entrepreneurs here, but tell me why does one street need 5 shops all selling industrial bakery mixers? Then, nowhere else in the entire city can you buy such an appliance! Competitive pricing at its worst.

We are however thoroughly enjoying our new city. Today we went to the top of Taipei 101, the worlds tallest building, amazing view as you can well imagine. Ventured to gawk at the changing of the guards, and wandering down snake alley. Then spent the remainder of the evening debating love, life and religion at Chiang Kai-shek memorial. Our last sightseeing adventure of Taipei will be the National Palace Museum, one of the largest collections of displayed Chinese artifacts. Next we bomb South to parts unknown hopefully catching a boat off this island!

In other adventures: you're never going to believe this but I'm still working out some negative karma from my previous life...I was bitten by an angry raccoon! Before my mother wets herself reading this, he was chained just outside the door of a restaurant and luckily for me he only got a piece of my shoe. Inside, the people were outstandingly friendly and our table was surrounded by camelions, bunnies, and crabs with colorful birds flying overhead. Truly a "lively" establishment.

These are the people in your neighborhood

So, I've really been contemplating this thought that half the journey is about the people we bump into by random chance. The people we meet, shape our perception of the world and potentially alter our future course through life. They literally affect us for the rest of our lives. Every dude I've ever debated politics with and every woman who I've had the pleasure of intimatly picking her brain. They all mold me and alter my preconceptions about Brits, Kiwis, Japs, Canadians and the world they were raised in. It's the same world I share. Their live is my life. Their life experiences have shaped their way of thinking and it takes many nights of inteligent debate to unravel my 28 years of North American thinking and engrained prejudices.

It's so hard to get these "feelings" on paper. The worst part is that Josh and I don't see people in the same light, so it's very hard to debate and get all my thoughts and frustrations "out." Here is one of the most distinct areas where you can see we are two TOTALLY different people. Josh is a man who will work damn hard to find even the slightest good in people. He works at it and works at it relentlesly...smiling the whole time and will finally find common ground w/ someone. I feel that I just don't have that amount of time to invest in jackasses. There are too many people great in this world to waste me time on flakes and creatins. Take tonight for instance. There was this guy John. Whatever, avearage guy. But by the end of the night Josh worked and worked to find some good in this guy. You know, his reason for traveling, why he was who he was. So many questions and insight. I had a totally different experience with this person. A full night of rude and brash comments ...I was in no way this guys friend and he made that clear to me early on. So when I refused to shake his hand at the end of the night, it AMAZED me that no one was more baffled than this guy John. I still haven't fully digested what it was in this man that propelled me to take the stance that I did. Trust that it was a strange scene that will play out again in my head for many days to come.

I admire Josh for his persistence and perhapse even insight. It's really quite astonishing to discuss our takeaways from all the people we've met on this journey. Truly wonderful people: Kristen the adorable, Richard the wanderer, Ellie, Yosh, Sarah, Ms. Kim, Squeeky. It's funny because even though Josh and I are on this adventure together...we're taking away such different pieces from the people we meet that will help shape who we are and how we see the world for the rest of our lives.

A city with Seoul

Well, we have finally gotten into a groove in Korea. It took long enough, but the weather has broke (translate: it's barable to be outside), we know a few Korean words and some of the street signs are in English. After landing a sweet apartment at $17/night and a few friends to show us the sights, life it good again.

Unbelievably, we survived "Superbowl Monday." Never in my life have I started drinking at 7:30 in the morning...and I can honestly say that I will most likely never again. It took some work, but we found a bar that was actually open at that ungodly hour in Itaewon. If you have ever been to this part of Seoul, you know it is like "Little America" there. Lots of fast food, bars, and familiar retail stores. Ahhh...we're home! We opt for a nice little sports pub, quickly make friends with our Nations' finest on leave from Yonsang Military Command Post. What a treat, to be surrounded by people who know what the heck you're saying. We soon learn that the whole base has the day off and if ever there was a time to invade a country...this was it. A little unsettling when you realize Seoul would have front row seats for any fireworks that might be lobbed over the DMZ.

Tomorrow is the Chinese New Year. Many of the major Asian cities (and all of China) pretty much shut down for parades and festivals. We hope to partake in some festivities and see more of what Seoul has to offer. Today we toured the main palace which is located near city hall. It's a strange blend of the old and the new as one walks through a palace and garden surrounded by skyscrapers. It will make for some interesting photos. It's starting to look like Seoul will be our home for a while to come.

Korea get any worse?

Well, we've finally hit a city that hit back. Busan is a huge port city, with skyscrapers and unending potential. Unfortunatly, it is everything that Japan is not. Gone are the smiling and helpful faces, we are only left with mild disgraces. The first night, we end up at a full hostel where one of us has to sleep on the floor (good news=heated floors, better news=it wasn't me). Things are still looking OK. Then we step out onto the street. Immediatly greeted by two nice older gentlemen, they insist on buying us a drink and practicing their English. No problem, we learn some Korean, drink a huge pitcher with them and head to another bar district. We soon realize this is the same part of town we've been trying in vain our whole trip to avoid. Since we've resisted thus far, we succum to the allures of the "hostess bar." For those of you not familiar, this is an establishment where attractive women will chat you up with broken English for money. When the money stops, so does the conversation. What a dreary experience. I have never seen so many unhappy women in my life. It's hard to believe we even finished our first and only beer. There they were...lined up on the wall, perched upon varying height stools and chairs just staring at us. It was like looking at a bunch of angry cats. Not a one would crack a smile. So, being the smart-asses that we are...we stared back, only with stupid shit eating grins on our faces. The seconds ticked away like hours, try as we might not a single girl would even crack a sneer. Unbelievable!

So, after high-tailing it out of there, we met our Korean friends on the street again. They hopped in our cab and we were off for a legit bar accross town. Little did we know that these crafty dogs actually highjacked our ride, convinced the cab driver to drop them off and then stuck us with the fare! What a life-lesson that was. We were just outwitted by men old enough to be our fathers and it felt just as harsh!

Eating is even more difficult. It seems that restaurants are only open for 2 hours at lunch and a few more at dinner...finding food is impossible. Also gone are the wonderous picture menues of Japan. We enter a restaurant, first thing out of the nice lady's mouth is "picture?" "Yes, yes" we say. Promptly two beers are returned to our table and she walks away. Hmph. I guess we could start drinking again...but we need a menu. She returns, we again try to order by pointing blindly at a Korean english menu, she explains rather poorly the kitchen is closed and we obviosly don't understand there are only set times to eat. As the days pass we have since discovered the wonders of peanut butter, and grocery stores have become easier to find.

Today we find ourselves sightseeing in Geongju, Korea. There are many shrines, buddhas and burial temples. This is "tourist-town, Korea" meaning we can find ourselves a decent meal, internet cafe and a place to sleep. We now have with us in tow an Austrian named Richard. As he was the only other white person we've seen in three days...naturally we pounced on him and he's been with us ever since. He is quite the nomadic character, with a strange sense of the world...but I suppose that's what makes him interesting.

Stepping outside this time of year in Korea is bitterly chilling. Josh and I are both lamenting the cold and discussions abound on what to do about it....