Brian's Travel Journal

Thursday, March 31, 2005

Ketchup

One of the most amazing highlights of any Philippine vacation is Northern Luzon. Josh and I clamor onto an eight-hour bus for a quite uncomfortable teeth chattering ride to the Mountain Province and the little town of Sagada. What a small town it is. There is one street light, one Catholic church (a Filipino staple in every town thanks to those crusading Spaniards) and multitudes more chickens than people. Aside from the easily broken 9pm curfew on the town it was a wonderful place. The mountains gave a cool reprieve from the often moist and stodgy Manila air. We spend many days exploring the limestone and sandstone caves, journeyed through an underground river and joyfully played in a natural pool created by a waterfall just outside of town. It felt good to get back on the beaten path and swap stories with all the wonderful travelers we met (The Dutch Girls, Peace Corp Peeps, Jesus Jeremy, Eccentric Quinton and the ever-stoned guy from Austria, just to name a few).

After a series of Jeepney rides and backwater towns we arrive in Banaue - home to the eight man made wonder of the world - rice terraces. Insert cool link Here. The flat spot where this pic was taken, we had a run-in with a not too happy carabao (Philippine version of a water buffalo). These wonders of ancient engineering are over 2000 years old and provide sole livelihood for the many people of these lands. Specific tracts of terrace are passed on through families to first and second born children and have been held in the same names for many generations. We opt for our first long distance hike and sign up for a three day trek across the Il-Fugao region. Our trusty guide Roberto and porter Alfredo take us through a tour of five mountain towns and deep into a culture that is rich with history. Days are spent traipsing over hill and dale, hundreds of stairs have been climbed and descended. As darkness falls each night, we settle into sleepy villages with names like Cambulo and Batad. Places where even the mightiest of forces: electricity, has yet to penetrate. After a couple of rain-filled days playing Texas Holdem it's time to return. Another nine-hour bus ride back to Manila (as all roads lead to Manila) and with a fond farewell we head for the first beach of our adventure.

Boracay is what one might call a world class, Western-style resort. It was also the first place outside of McD's that we found real tomato ketchup. Most restaurants in the Philippines usually serve a "banana ketchup" variety - which I must say is a poor substitute. This place was a vacation from our vacation and a welcome reprieve from the hectic demands of international travel (wink-wink). We book ourselves into a wonderful resort called the Peninsula and immediately embark onto a remarkably soft white-sand beach. The music is pumping, bikinis are showing, sun is shining, food is tasty, one-hour Swedish massages are going for the bargain price of 350 Pesos ($7), and with a single huck of the Frisbee and a diving catch into crystal blue waters we both know we've found home for the next eight days.

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